Бачковският ставропигиален манастир „Успение Богородично“ е вторият по големина български манастир след Рилския.
Бачковската ставропигия с храмов празник 15 август се намира в долината на Чепеларската река (също така известна като река Чая), на около 10 километра южно от Асеновград. Манастирът е живописно ограден от хълмовете на Родопите, което, заедно с внушителния му размер и богатата му история, го прави един от най-посещаваните в България.
Манастирът е основан през 1083 г. от Григорий Бакуриани — велик доместик на западните войски на византийския император Алексий I Комнин и Абазий, негов брат. Съставеният по нареждане на основателя манастирски устав (типик) е запазен в преписи на гръцки и грузински език.Според него светските и църковни власти, вкл. митрополитът на Филипопол (Пловдив), нямат право да се месят в работите на обителта (глава 3) и достъпът в нея е закрит за монаси-гърци (глава 24).
Бачково се развива първоначално като център на грузинското монашество. Към края на XI в. там се оформя книжовна школа, известна в изворите като Петрицонска — название, произхождащо от първоначалното име на съседната крепост Петрич. Чрез преводаческата дейност на работещите в манастира книжовници се осъществяват връзките на средновековна Грузия с Византия. Един от тези книжовници е грузинският философ-неоплатоник Йоан Петрици (около 1050 – 1130 г.), ученик на Йоан Итал. От това време са съхранени две важни сгради — костницата и църквата „Св. Архангели“, както и иконата на Богородица, чийто стар сребърен обков бил дарен през 1311 г. от грузинците Атанасий и Окропир (Златоуст).
През 1344 г. Станимашка област е отстъпена на Иван-Александър от византийската императрица Анна Савойска срещу обещана помощ в борбата против Йоан Кантакузин. В продължение на около двадесет години обителта се ползва от покровителството на българския цар (за чийто портрет в манастирската костница вж. по-долу). Бачково остава в границите на търновската държава до 1364 г., когато османците завладяват Пловдив, Станимака и други родопски крепости.
След падането на Търново през 1393 г. патриарх Евтимий е прогонен „в Стенимах“.Смята се, че става дума за Бачковския манастир. Патриархът продължава своята книжовна работа с помощта на ученика си Андрей-Андроник и умира около 1404 г. (за предполагаемия му гроб вж. по-долу). В „Станимашкия“ (явно Бачковския) манастир се оттегля след сваланято му от престола и вселенският патриарх Симеон (1467).
Споменава се, че църквата на манастира „паднала до основи от времето на владичеството на нечестивите“, но според документални свидетелства той продължава съществуването си през XV и XVI в.[9] Манастирските сгради са подновени от игумена Доситей ок. 1572-1594 г.Неговият приемник Партений издига църквата „Успение Богородично“ (1604) и трапезарията (1623).
Бачковският манастир, общ изглед
По времето на Доситей Бачковският манастир вече е ставропигия на Цариградската патриаршия.През 1801 г. обаче йеромнах Макарий е утвърден за негов игумен не от патриарха, а от пловдивския митрополит – „съгласно утановения отдавна стар обичай“.За продължаващото присъствие на монаси-българи свидетелствуват снабдените с благодарствени надписи дарове от техни роднини и съграждани.[14] Към 1869 г. обаче в манастира било открито училище, в което деца от околните селища се учели на гръцки език.
На 8.12.1894 г. по искане на монасите обителта преминава под ведомството на Българската екзархия.Да създадат българско братство там са пратени риломанастирските иеромонаси Харалампий, Дионисий, Иоасаф и монах Серафим.
През 1941-47 г. в Бачково е евакуирана Пловдивската духовна семинария. Избухнал през нощта на 10.12.1947 г. пожар унищожава богатата семинарска библиотека.
Евтимий Търновски бил погребан в „църквата на Петриотиса“, обикновено отъждествявана с тази на Бачковския манастир.Повечето учени обаче смятат, че откритият през 1905 г. под черквата „Св. Архангели“ гроб не е негов. В Бачково пожелават да бъдат погребани екзарх Стефан, първият признат от целия православен свят предстоятел на възстановената самостойна Българска православна църква и Кирил, първият български патриарх след св. Евтимий. Техните останки почиват в западната част на главния манастирски храм „Успение Богородично“. Така обителта става единственото съхранено упокойно място на българските църковни предстоятели, обозначавайки по този начин приемствеността в българската духовна йерархия.
Манастирските здания образуват два правоъгълни двора — северен (първоначален) и южен (добавен през 30-те години на XIX в.). На два пъти, в 1912 и 1947 г., части от жилищните сгради биват разрушени от пожар.В сегашния си вид източната страна на северния двор е строена през 1928-29 г., западната — през 1949-55 г., а северната — през 1964 г.Манастирските крила в южния двор са възстановени през 80-те години на 20-ти век по проект на архитектите Никола Мушанов и Зл. Кирова. Впоследствие вътрешността им е оформена по проекти на арх. Д. Дамянов и арх. Хр. Ганчев. Напоследък (2009) посред двора е направено шадраванче. Освен основната църква комплексът включва по-малките храмове „Св. Архангели“ и „Св. Никола“ и килийната църква „Все светии“ (над старата трапезария).
Главна черква „Успение на Пресвета Богородица“
Главната манастирска църква (1604)
Сегашната черква е построена в 1604 г. върху основите на старата Бакурианова църква и по образец на светогорските триконхални храмове. В нея се намира широко почитана икона на Богородица Влахернска, обкована със сребро в 1311 и 1819 г. и смятана за чудотворна.
Иконостасът е един най-ранните (от първите десетилетия на XVII в.) дърворезбени иконостаси по българските земи. Долната му част представлява иззидана от бигор олтарна преграда, върху която са издигнати дървените части: пояс на царските икони, триделен архитрав и два реда малки икони. Те образуват релефен архитектурен фриз, увенчан с висок дървен кръст, фланкиран с две рипиди. Дърворезбената украса включва лозница с орнаментални мотиви.Иконите в празничния ред датират от XVII в., а тези на Христос и Богородица в царския ред са рисувани през 1793 г. от Яков, монах в светогорския манастир Ивирон.
Първоначалната живопис в наоса е била изцяло прерисувана от зографа Мосхос от Одрин през 1850 г.Толкова по-ценни са запазените стенописи в притвора, които според ктиторския надпис датират от 1643 г.и включват великолепни портрети на дарителите Георги и неговия син Константин от тесалийското село Власи (Βλάσι Καρδίτσας, Βλάσι των Αγράφων).Тези стенописи отразяват водещите тенденции в манастирското изкуство на Балканите както по стил, така и по тематика (включваща илюстрации на редки старозаветни сюжети, сцени от църковния календар, „Успение на св. Ефрем Сирин“ и други).
Църквата „Св. Архангели“
Църква „Св. Архангели“
Двуетажната църква е посветена на предводителите на небесното войнство Михаил и Гавраил и се намира западно от главния храм, долепена до него. Преданието твърди, че тя е издигната от император Алексий I Комнин.Според археологически данни е строена преди XIII век и навярно обновена през XIV в. от цар Иван-Александър.Храмовата икона „Събор на архангелите“ (пазена сега в София)е едно от добрите произведения на живописта от средата на XIV век.Захари Зограф изписва през 1841 г. аркирания свод-проход под църквата с илюстрации на евангелските притчи и с портрет на Алексий I Комнин.Стенописите в самия храм (на горния етаж) са oт 1846 г. и също като тези в главната църква (вж. по-горе) са дело на одринчанина Мосхос. Те включват изображение на едно чудо, извършено от архангел Михаил в атонския манастир „Дохияр“.
Църквата „Св. Никола“ (1834-37)
Църква „Св. Никола“
Строена от 1834 до към 1837 г. при игуменството на йеромонах Ананий — българин от Сливен,църквата се издига в южния манастирски двор и впечатлява със стенописите си от 1840 г., дело на Захари Зограф.Изтъкнатият български художник изписва вътрешността и открития притвор на храма.В обширното изображение на Страшния съд той изписал сред грешниците обази на някои от тогавашните пловдивски богаташи. Посетилият Бачково скоро след завършването на стенописите Никола Тонджоров съобщава в писмо до Неофит Рилски (20.04.1843 г.) за видените там „зографии Захариеви, на които се сърдят филибелии, защо е неколцина изобразил у вечна мука, сос такия дрехи, каквито носят и мъжете и жените…“ Редом с образите на манастиркия игумен Матей от Стара Загора и на неговия предходник (проигумен) Ананий в горния ъгъл на фасадната стена на църквата художникът е нарисувал и свой автопортрет, надписан „изобрази ся рукою моею“ „Захарий х. Зограф болгарин“.
Старата трапезария
Старата, неизползвана сега трапезария се намира на приземния етаж в южното крило на манастира. Tя представлява правоъгълно по план помещение с полуцилиндричен свод и апсида на западната стена, където е седял игуменът. Запазена е мраморна маса (изработена, според издълбан в нея надпис, през 1701 г.),на която монасите са се хранели в продължение на повече от два века.
Старата манастирска трапезария
Според един изчезнал днес надпис трапезарията била построена в 1623 г. и покрита със стенопис през 1643 г. за сметка на същия дарител Георги, който заплатил за украсяването на притвора в главната манастирска църква (вж. по-горе). По художествени достойнства тези фрески могат да бъдат съпоставени само с най-хубавите светогорски образци, и по-точно с живописта в трапезарията на Великата лавра „Св. Атанасий“ (1535).Освен Страшния съд и фигурите на светци-монаси тук намираме сцени от историята на християнската църква — изображения на седемте вселенски събора, които заклеймяват еретиците и отстояват чистотата на вярата. Двадесет и четири сцени илюстрират богослужебното песнопение в чест на Божията Майка, известно като „Богородичен акатист“. В свода се разгръщат клонките на „Дървото Йесеево“ – родословно дърво на Иисус Христос.Покрай него са изписани образите на антични философи и писатели (Аристотел, Сократ, Диоген и други), които се разглеждат като предтечи на християнството, а мъдростта им се съпоставя с тази на библейските пророци.Стенописите са почистени през 1967-72 г. под ръководството на чешкия реставратор Раймунд Ондрачек.
През 1846 г. Алекси Атанасов рисува върху външната стена на трапезарията разгърната панорама на Бачковския манастир и околността му.Тя включва образите на главните ктитори и обновители на манастира (Григорий Бакуриани, Алексий I Комнин, Бакуриановия брат Абазий, Гавриил и сина му Георги) и изобраява ежегодното (провеждано и в наши дни) църковно шествие с чудотворната Богородична икона на светли понеделник (след Великден).Това е най-голямата панорамна стенописна композиция в България.
Костницата
Олтарът на горния етаж в костницaта
Двуетажната гробищна църква се намира на около 300 метра източно от основните здания на манастира. Реставрацията на храма и неговите стенописи е завършена през 2002 г. със средства на кипърската фондация „Левендис“.
В долния етаж е оформено костохранилище (гробница), а в горния – храм. Първоначалната стенoпис от XII век е относително добре запазена и се нарежда сред най-ценните произведения на православното изкуство от времето на Комнините.Тя включва две величествени изображения на възкресението на мъртвите – Страшния съд и видението на Пророк Йезекил в долината със сухите кости (Йезекил 37:1-14). Гръцки надпис съобщава, че живописта е дело на художника Йоан Иверопулос, който, ако се съди по презимето му, е бил от грузинско потекло.
През ХIV век, по времето на цар Йоан Александър, са зазидани отворените аркади в горния и долния етаж на костницата. Новообразуваните ниши са изписани с образи на самия владетел, на неговия светец-покровител Йоан Богослов, на Св. св. Константин и Елена, а в долния етаж — на “севаст Григорий Пакурианос, раб Христов, велик доместник и ктитор” редом с “магистър Абасий, брат на ктитора” и на “Георги и Гавраил, вторите ктитори” (надписите са на гръцки).
Стенописен портрет на цар Иван Александър в притвора на костницата
Българският цар е изобразен в поза, характерна за императорски портрет. В своята дясна ръка той държи увенчан с кръст скиптър, а в лявата — присвита към гърдите — свитък. За византийското влияние в тогавашна България свидетелства това, че надписът (сега унищожен) „Йоан во Христа [Бога верен цар]…“ е бил на гръцки език.Облеклото на царя повтаря до най-малки подробности византийските императорски одежди: той носи червена далматика, лорос, камилафкион и осеяна със скъпоценни камъни корона.
Движими старини
За чудотворната икона на Света Богородица и храмовата икона на черквата „Св. Архангели“ вж. по-горе. Манастирът има собствен музей, в който могат да се видят богослужебна утвар и образци на църковното изкуство от различни времена.Особено забележителен е сребърният дискос, подарен (според славянския надпис върху него) през 1644 г. от Теодосий от Пещера и изработен от чипровския майстор Петър.Произхождащи от Бачковския манастир предмети се намират също в Църковния историко-археологически музей (София) и във Византийския и християнски музей (Атина).Повечето ръкописи от някогашната манастирска библиотека се пазят сега в Църковно-историческия и архивен институт на Българската православна църква.
Култура и туризъм
Бачковският манастир е сред Стоте национални туристически обекта, Български туристически съюз, работно време 08:00-17:00 ч., има печат на БТС.
Манастирският комплекс и околността са се превърнали в развит туристически обект с множество магазинчета, сергии и заведения, ограждащи пешеходната алея до манастира. Тук е изложено за продан буквално всичко, което расте или се произвежда в Родопите — редки билки, домашни сладка от диви плодове, козе и биволско кисело мляко и сирене, родопски вълнени одеяла и други.
В манастирските църкви срещу подходящо заплащане се извършват бракосъчетания, кръщенета и др.
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